Make my garden tree a bonsai

My friend Lucy Ravitch is an amazing math teacher. She has written books for children on math. She posts a video on ideas to teach children math every Thursday (this is the latest one https://plus.google.com/u/0/+LucyRavitch/posts/YMoBuYDupBh). Anywho, She told me that she was looking to get rid of one of her landscape trees. Like any good bonsai lover dreams of yamadori bonsai filled my head.

This is the tree in question. My daughter is standing underneath it. This is a strawberry tree, Arbutus Unedo. It is a European tree that grows mostly in the Mediterranean. The best feature of this tree is the reddish-orange fruit and fragrant bell-shaped flowers it has from late fall to winter. It also has a very beautiful flakey bark, and to top it off I love the menthol-like scent it has. Yes, I love this tree.

An added plus is that because it was designed as a topiary tree it has amazing curvy branches.

A few negatives are the reverse taper of the trunk, not all the large branches are at the bottom, and the branches are too long.

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I started the air layer with a gardening saw. I cut two rings to mark the top and bottom edges of where I am going to remove the bark.

I used a flat gouge to remove the bark. It came off easy, a little too easy. It has very delicate bark. I used my fingers to remove the rest of the bark.

I coated the top edge of the cut with rooting hormone.

After, I soaked sphagnum moss in water. I cut a heavy duty trash bag to size. The trash bag will hold the sphagnum in place. I squeezed most of the water out of the sphagnum moss and placed it in the bag. I use zip ties to hold everything up.

I am worried that the air layer will not take. I promised to remove the tree by August even if the layer does not take. Also, I have never seen this tree, so I am worried about back budding. I saw a picture of Graham Potter with a huge strawberry tree that was shaped into a bonsai, so I believe that it is possible. Wish me luck. Cheers.

Update 07/31/2017
I went to chop the tree down. I checked the wound for roots. No roots to be seen anywhere. In fact, the tree had a callus forming on the exposed wood. The callus was slimey and spongey.  I was a little disappointed but not surprised.

I decided to move to plan B. I would remove the tree and try to plant it in a pot. It was easy to remove the tree as it had no tap root and all the big thick roots were on the surface. I used a pick to dig a trench around the trunk. When I had dug the trench and cut the branch like roots I used the top of the tree as leverage to sway the tree loose. it took two tugs and a push and the tree was free. I pruned all the branches and took the trunk home. There I used a hand saw to remove about 4 feet of trunk.

I made some clean cuts to the bigger roots. Then buried the roots in a compost, sand, and pumice blend.

Do I think the tree will take? I am hoping so. I will put it in semi shade and water like normal.

Air layer to create a more aesthetic root system

What if you were developing a bonsai but all the roots are growing to one side? What if you find a tree with lots of potential but the soil has left many of the large roots exposed? I had this problem with a Japanese boxwood and a cotoneaster. Now that spring is here I decided to air layer the tree. However, I am not going to separate the tree from its original roots. What I am going to do is encourage new roots to grow from a better position near the base of the tree.

This is the cotoneaster That I am working on. I bought it last year. I rooted some of the cuttings from this tree. It is a fighter.

The problem is that all the roots are growing in one direction. There will never be radial nebari (roots). Problem number two is that the soil line has dropped causing the fine roots to shrivel and die. The main roots have hardened so there is a very minimal to no chance of growing fine roots. I am going to help this tree overcome its challenges.

First, I am going to remove a ring of bark from the two main roots. I need to remove the cambium layer as well. Second, I remove a patch of bark and cambium right under the trunk where the roots start bending away from the tree. I want roots to grow from there especially as there are none.

I apply rooting hormone to the open wounds with a small paint brush. You can actually see the severity of the problem from this angle. I need roots to grow like the rays on a painting of the sun.

Finally, I add this superfine coconut husk medium. It retains water but does not stay too wet. This is experimental as I have never done this with coconut husk. It is fairly inexpensive, It is very compact when you buy it and it seems to retain just the right amount of water. It sold as soilless seed starter in the shape of a brick. Just add water.

I am going to leave this alone through August. How will you know if your plant is ok? When the leaves turn brown I know it was a failure. When there is new growth then all is working fine. That's it for now. I have some updates for some of the other projects that I started last year coming up. Cheers.

Update 07/14

It has been two and a half months. We passed through some heat waves. we passed through time. I felt that it was time to review the root progress.

Everything looked normal until I popped the tree out of the pot. There I saw big new roots growing from the coconut coir down into the sandy soil. This was a very good sign.

I dug around and removes the coconut coir. I was pleasantly surprised to find that there was a thick root mass growing right at the air layer.

New roots on top mean I can slice off part of the root system at the bottom. But best of all the new roots will cover that ugly tap root that was keeping this tree from reaching its full potential.

Air layer using synthetic medium, or Cloning trees in a brave new world.

So, My brother was playing with these gel balls. He showed me these tiny colorful beads. He dropped them in water and a about an hour later they had soaked up water and had expanded to a relatively large size. We grabbed handfuls and started flinging it at one another. We had a very good time.

I got to thinking that this might be something I can use with my plants. When I did my research I found that it is already used in horticulture. Apparently it has more uses than a gitchy water source for bridal center pieces.  

The name of this polymer is Polyacrylamide. I am going to use this for air layers. Last year I made some air layers, but I forgot to water them and they failed. With these little babies in place even if I forget to check the air layers it will not result in catastrophe.

The following is a time lapse of about one hour. I did not add any more polymer balls after the initial portion. I did have to add lots of water though.

Colored balls and clear ones

Total number of balls used n the experiment

After thirty seconds there was a size change

Ten minutes in water

Final outcome

So I prepped this apple tree for the air layer (How to Air Layer). I added the polymer balls and pulled the bag fairly tight.  I checked it the next day. It had condensation but no pooling of water. Prognosis, satisfactory. Ill cross my fingers on this experiment. Cheers.  

see the condensation?

Japanese Green Maple

Oh, I found this website: https://www.stevespanglerscience.com/lab/experiments/water-jelly-crystals-superabsorbent-polymers/

It has some fun facts:

• One pound of Water Jelly Crystals will absorb up to 35 gallons of rainwater or snowmelt, and 20-25 gallons of tap water, depending on the salt content of the water.
• Water Jelly Crystals can be applied wet or dry. Dry granules are usually easier to use, but soak them thoroughly to fully fill them with water (hydrate). When hydrated, the granules look like chunks of clear gelatin about 1/2 inch in diameter.
• Dry Application: For large quantities of potting soil or backfill around trees and shrubs. – 1.5-2 pounds/ cubic yard of potting soil or backfill – 1 ounce/ cubic foot of soil
• For small quantities of potting soil – 1/2 teaspoon per quart of soil. Note: Since dry granules swell to many times their original size when water is added, 15-20% swelling room must be left in each planting hole or flower pot to compensate.
• Wet Application: Best for small applications such as repotting house plants and planting shrubs, small trees, and bedding plants. 1/2 teaspoon of dry granules absorbs approximately 1 cup of water. – 1 ounce of dry granules absorbs approximately 1 1/2 cups of water. – 1 pound of dry granules absorbs approximately 30 gallons of water. Mix the granules in water and allow the mixture to stand for 60-90 minutes (Hot water works faster). Once you have the polymer all soaked up, the application rate is roughly one part hydrated polymer to four parts soil.
• House/Office Plants – 6″ pot (2/3 gallon) 1 teaspoon dry or 2 cups hydrated – 8″ pot (1 1/2 gallons) 2 Tablespoons dry or 6 cups hydrated – 5 gallon pot 7 teaspoons dry or 1 gallon hydrated Note: Mix Water Jelly Crystals in the lower half of the pot, because the water tends to flow quickly through porous potting soil, before the granules near the top have time to rehydrate fully.
• Repotting: Using the above rates mix granules or hydrated gel (the hydrated gel works the best) thoroughly in the lower half of the pot. If using dry granules, fill the soil only to within 1 inch of the pot rim to prevent swelling out of the pot.
• Existing Plants: Depending on the container size, use a pencil or wooden spoon handle to poke 4-6 holes around the plant, going to the bottom, Divide the correct amount of dry granules evenly among the holes, pushing them to the bottom. Water the plant slowly to hydrate the granules. Wait at least 2-3 weeks before changing watering intervals, to give feeder roots a chance to grow down into the granules.
• Vegetable and Flower Gardens: Use 4-5 pounds/ 100 square feet for low-water adapted flowers, and up to 10 pounds/100 square feet for water loving vegetable and flowers. Hint: The addition of weed-barrier fabric will further reduce the need for water or weeding. Application suggestions… By hand, or using a spreader, distribute the granules evenly over the leveled bed, and then turn the soil back under. Bedding plants may be given a quick start by mixing a handful of hydrated gel in the back fill of each plant, taking care not to leave clumps of gel. Water the bed thoroughly after planting.
• Trees and Shrubs: Dig a hole 5 times the diameter, but no deeper than the root ball or container. The table shows the amount of dry granules needed to mix in the backfill of round holes 2.5 to 5 times the diameter of the container. Container Size 2.5 times 5 times – 1 gallon 1/3 cup 1/2 cup – 5 gallon 5/8 cup 3 1/2 cups – 15 gallon 1 2/3 cup 7 3/4 cups. If you don’t want to dig such a big hole just calculate the amount of backfill and figure one once per cubic foot. The bigger the hole the more polymer you can use and the more water storage you’ll gain.
• New or Seeded Turf: Watering intervals can be extended approximately one day for each 7 1/2 pounds of Water Jelly Crystals per 1000 square feet given evaporation rates of .25 inch per day. For example, 15 pounds of granules normally stores 1/2 inch of extra water (two additional days between waterings) and 30 pounds stores 1 inch of water (four additional days between watering). Warning: To avoid making a soft lawn, never use more than 5 pounds of Water Jelly Crystals per tilled inch per 1000 square feet. Thus, 20 pounds must be tilled in 4 inches; 30 pounds 6 inches. Increase the application rate roughly 10% over sloped areas. Save one pound to spread over the top of each 1000 square feet before laying sod (but not if you are seeding, as it just breaks down in the wet phase if not covered by soil.) Water thoroughly and slowly. Application: By hand, or using a spreader, distribute the granules evenly before roto-tilling to the appropriate depth.

Update March 10:

The gel balls turned to mush. I am going to call this experiment a failure.

Air layer of an apple tree or how to make bonsai from tree branches

Air layer is an ancient technique used for cloning plants. But Ivan, why would I use an air layer to make a bonsai? I’m glad you asked that question. There are many reasons to use an air layer to create material for bonsai.  In the same time that it takes to grow a seedling you can have a decent size trunk with mature leaves and branches. Also, some plants may flower after maturity is reached, which may take several years when grown from seed. Air layering trees that flower will produce new plants that are able to flower with in the same season.  Sometimes a bonsai will get too big and air layering will reduce the size and give you a second tree to work with. Perhaps a plant is hard to come by and air layering will produce viable copies.  Many times in bonsai an air layer is applied to a bonsai whose trunk is long and foliage is high. Air layer where the ideal trunk size starts. Air layer can also correct problems with exposed roots. Exposed roots are desired, but not when they are growing in an unpleasing way.  There are many more reasons to air layer. However, I am using it because I believe that certain branches on an apple tree would make great bonsai. So, great question.

Basically what you are doing in an air layer is removing a ring of bark all the way past the cambium layer from a branch. This will disrupt the normal flow of water. Then you will have to add some moist medium such as sphagnum moss held in place with a plastic bag. This will give the branch moisture that will keep it from drying out. I will add a rooting hormone to help the branch make roots faster.  The key to a successful air layer is three parts. First, the entire cambium layer should be removed. That layer is the white soft part behind the inner bark. You will know that you have removed it when the wood starts to look slightly more yellow instead of the white. Second, the medium in the bag has to remain moist. There should not be a pooling of water in the bag. That means that there is too much water.  An air layer will take time to develop the sufficient root mass to survive on its own. During this time I use a basting syringe to add water. Third, let the roots grow to a size that is able to support the foliage the branch has. Leaves equal perspiration. The more leaves a tree has the more water that is lost. You can reduce the amount of leaves, or you can let the roots grow out.

      This apple tree started growing about four years ago.  I’m pretty sure it was delivered by a bird through its waste. The Apples are very tasty. They look like small Pink Ladies.  Apple tree bonsai look very nice, especially in the spring when they are flowering. I will be making multiple air layers on the same tree. This specific branch I feel has much potential because of its scars. They are already healing. The branch is small and thin and can be shaped by wire easily. Also, I want it to be a very small bonsai.

The desired branch

After choosing the branch, score it in a way that will allow you to peel a ring of bark off. I use these shears to do that. You must make a deep cut in the branch. Then, without loosening your grip move the shears around the branch until it comes back to the original position. Repeat the same procedure an inch away from the first cut. 

Scoring the branch

Deep cuts work best

With a pair of pliers tightly grasp the bark and move them back and forth. Do not move them side to side.  But Ivan what is the difference? Yet another great question. Move the pliers so that they are able to spin the ring of the bark. Now, this branch has a knot so it won’t spin. Make sure that not one fiber of the cambium is touching both sides of the wound. 

I used a knob cutter to remove the protrusion 

I have made air layers in the past. Those were made without rooting hormone. I will use this rooting hormone to see if it will speed up the process.

It is important that you do not breathe in the hormone, and wash your hands after using it. Dust some of the powder on to the edge of the wound on the side that has the branch you want to make a tree. It is important that the powder make contact with the exposed layers and not just on the bark.

I cut the ends of a zip lock bag. This bag will hold the medium. This can be the trickiest part. Sometimes you won’t be able to use a bag because of branches or what not. You will have to use a sheet of plastic (in other words, cut the bag open so that it is no longer a bag but a plastic sheet). This will make holding it and filling it awkward.

Use a rubber band to securely tighten one end of the bag. I am securing close to the fork on the main branch so that there will be space to add the medium.

I used peat moss as the medium. My father in law grew up in Latin America. He said that they used many layers of fabric as the medium. Some people do not use a plastic bag for air layer. The use a plastic pot and cut it so that the trunk fits in the middle, they fill it with dirt and keep adding water when it starts to dry out. This can only be done with vertical trunks and branches.

Make sure that the medium is always moist. I added a piece of aluminum to block the sun and retain more heat. You will know that it has roots when you see a white hair like strands against the dark background. Ivan how do I know if the air layer failed? Another great question my friend. If the leaves turn brown and the branch loses its color the air layer has failed. on successful air layers leave the bag on until you see a great many fine roots.  On a future post I will show you my triumphs and my defeats concerning this apple tree. Cheers.  

Update May 16 2016

The tie came off one of the air layers. I took a picture so you can see the growth.

Update July 23

I'll be the first to admit that I somewhat neglected these air layers. I volunteer at a number of organizations, plus work, family, and life's ups and downs...well, I could have paid more attention to the apple tree. Heaven knows that I want these little guys to survive. I made three air layers on the apple tree. I decided to plant one just to see if it would survive. Normally i wait until i see long stringy roots. I opened the plastic sheath and saw white clumps. I think there are no stringy roots because i neglected to water the air layer many times during heat waves. Nevertheless, I took pruning shears and cut the air layer. the air layer did have new branches that grew after I started it.  I cut those in half to reduce the number of leaves to limit perspiration. this picture was taken twenty four hours after I cut the air layer.

The tree looks fine, I water this part of my garden daily, so the tree has probably seen more water in the last 24 hours than from when I made the air layer to when I cut it.